The rod are fairly easy to make but can take considerable time depending on just what results you're satisfied with. I have made some that only took a couple of hours while others took many, many hours. It's all in the finishing, just how many coats of varnish, how the guide wraps are to look, etc.

An easy to make pole would be 10 - 12 feet long, or whatever you might like, with 5 or 6 guides plus the top or rod tip as I ususally call it. One problem you may run into is getting a rod top large enough....I personally like a number 26, no smaller. I have made rods with smaller tips but they often seem just too limber. I prefer the stiffness of a rod made with the # 26 or even a #28 or a #30. They may seem a bit stiff, but if you're slinging a 5 - 6 ounce weight plus two big chunks of cut mullet, the stiffness is OK. Also, the stiffer rod stays straighter longer. They all will eventually take on a curve set from keeping tension on the line while bottom fishing. The stiffer rod also handles larger fish with ease....

I don't use manufactured reel seat. Instead, just measure up from the butt end about 26 or more inches and then, using nylon twine, color of your choice, wrap an area about 8 to 10 inches and use stainless steel hose clamps to secure the reel where ever fits you best.

You need to decide on the length of rod you want, paying special attention to the tip size. A number 26 is about 3/8ths. inch inside diameter. You would be wise to get your rod tip first before cutting the pole. Measure the pole's smaller tip end sections to find the one that is nearest your tip size diameter and carefully cut it. I use a tubing cutter, like a plumber would use on small copper line. Your pole should go about half way into it(rod tip) before getting tight when you first put it on. You will likely have to do a little filing on the poles tip to get the correct taper to go far enough up into the rod top.

Once you have the rod top fitted, you can then cut off the butt end to your final length. I have talked to guys to tell me they have used a calcutta that was as much as 15 or 16 feet long. I think that is too long and have found 12 feet or even slightly less just fine. I use rod holders that are 4 feet long and push them about a foot into the sand so I gain some length there to help keep the fishing line above some of the waves. Also, carrying them fishing can become a task even at 12 feet.

Anyway, once you got it cut to length, you need to sand it down, especially the areas where the "branches" were attached. Clean these areas up really good and sand entire length of rod.

You can now attach the guides. This takes a special wrap where just as you finish the wrapping, you pull the ends of the string back under the twine you have wrapped on....there are no knots to tie, the tension of the wrappings hold the now hidden ends in place beneath the wraps. This one of the more time consuming steps in building the rod as you must make two such wraps for each guide. If you are not familiar with this procedure, this could really be a problem as I know of no other way to secure the guides and make the finished rod look nice....I you have built rods before, then you should have no problems here....

Note: The reel seat wrapping is done the same as the rod guides with twine ends pulled back under wrappings to hide and secure them.

Once you have finished the guides and reel seat wrapping, you can apply your finish coating. I've used marine varnish and I've used 2 part epoxy....Either one is just fine. BUT....Don't use anything less than marine type varnish because it just will not last....!

Liberally coat the twine wrappings but watch out for drips and runs. Apply at least two coats of varnish or one heavy coat of the epoxy to the entire rod. If you use the epoxy, you'll have to turn the rod continually while the epoxy sets so as not to have ugly drips, so keep this in mind.

Can't think of anything else to tell ya....I'll try to answer your questions should you have any.... Good luck,